When I first went to Japan twelve years ago for my honeymoon, I was very depressed the foreign appearance of Tokyo that I didn’t even think about adding another stop to our country tour. Yes, once you hear it, it is impossible to avoid billboards and advertisements all over Kyotojust over two hours away from the Japanese capital by Shinkansen, or bullet train. Alas, by the time I realized how much we were missing out on the history, culture and food of Japan by not visiting, it was too late to turn around and add a stop.
But, as I am nothing if not angry, I have spent the last 12 years planning my return to the country and, finally, a stop in this mighty and beautiful ancient capital.
While Tokyo can be overwhelming to plan a trip with just its sheer size, planning a trip to Kyoto requires attention to detail for a variety of reasons—namely, almost all of its hotels and restaurants are surprisingly recommended. And even if you’re only looking for a five-star range, the options are still wide: Aman, Four Seasons and The Ritz-Carlton all have spaces here.
But in a city as steeped in history as Kyoto, and especially known for its well-preserved temples, shrines and palaces, I wanted to book a room somewhere that was infused with a similar sense of belonging. I Imperial Hotel, Kyoto it ticks the boxes for several reasons: it’s part of the small Japanese-based Imperial Hotel group as opposed to part of a large, overseas conglomerate; this particular place is housed inside the historic Yasaka Kaikan, which was once a performing arts hall with a staircase; and finally, its location in Gion, arguably the beating heart of all Kyoto’s historic districts.
However, booking a hotel two weeks after it opens is not without risks: what if a last-minute construction delay pushes back the booking? What if the service is not up to par? Happily, I can report that after only starting to welcome guests on March 5, the staff at the Imperial Hotel, Kyoto, has already assembled in a way that feels like the place has been open for decades.
Perhaps this has something to do with the long history of the building we live in, which was designated as a Tangible Cultural Site in 2001 (although it had been vacant for years due to concerns about seismic stability). The Imperial, aiming to preserve the stunning exterior as much as possible while building a new earthquake-resistant building, then began renovations for nearly five years, finally finishing with a building with 55 rooms and five categories of rooms, including a set of suites all fitting into an area of more than 1,000 square meters.
But even the non-suite rooms, which start at 600-plus square feet, are spacious, and notable for the many design options available to guests. Those looking for a historic Japanese space and nothing like what can be found at Gion’s machine (traditional wooden houses) on the streets below, can choose a room in the North Wing, which features tatami flooring, cherrywood planks and a clean, minimalist design. But if a more Western style is preferred (and you can keep your shoes in these too), then those in the Main Building, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a sleek, modern look, fit the bill. A special perk in every room is the soft, oversized cotton blankets, fitted in the dresser, available for use during your stay. I can’t say for sure that they helped me sleep better, but I was certainly comfortable, if not exactly fashion-forward, in them.
The public areas of the hotel have the same interior design as the rooms: restrained and minimalist, but never overbearing. Think cream chairs with rattan backing, with copper and stone accents on the walls and ceiling in the lobby. The place is surprisingly quiet, thanks to a security protocol that requires you to swipe your key to open the main door. Similarly, the small, but beautiful roof, is made only for hotel guests, so the bar with 24 seats and the terrace is never full. But the showstopper inside the hotel is actually several floors below, in the basement. Here, you’ll find an indoor heated, cave-like pool; the perfect place to relax after a day spent exploring temples and shrines.
Aside from the historical sites, the main draw to Kyoto is the focus and number of its restaurants. It’s no surprise, then, that the Imperial itself is home to many ideas, including Ren, the chef’s counter-intuitive French bar, and the Old Imperial Bar, a 20-seat classic cocktail lounge. But the meal that left even this food writer in awe was the included Japanese-style breakfast, which you can serve in your room or at Yasaka, the hotel’s sunny, all-day dining option. I suggest the first one, so you can eat the real deal in your hotel-approved jams. The spread is so large, it comes with a menu so you can identify each portion, which includes a three-tiered box filled with everything from prawns to green beans, as well as fresh squeezed juice, miso soup, rolled omelette and more.
Whether it was during a casual breakfast in your room or while enjoying the tranquility of the lobby, I found that there was a certain elegance to this place, despite the fact that it is brand new. Although I had my 10-year-old daughter with me, and the staff were more than happy to accommodate her, I would instead recommend this place to singles or couples rather than families, both because of the quietness of the hotel and the many bar spaces. For the first estimate of At 164,500 JPY (which, at press time, is a little over $1,000), it’s not cheap. But compared to the price of the other luxury chains mentioned above, it’s a relative bargain in the realm of a five-star hotel—especially in Kyoto.
